Kazbegi is home to much more than the climb up to the Tsminda Sameba Church. The surrounding region is full of remote valleys, towering peaks, and historic mountain passes.
In fact, on your way into Kazbegi after crossing Jvari Pass, you’ll have an opportunity to complete one of Kazbegi’s great side treks in Truso Valley. (Alternatively, you can head straight to Kazbegi, get settled into your lodging, and backtrack to the Truso Valley any point during your stay, or even complete the trek on your way out.)
The Truso Valley is an immense, deep valley wedged between massive ranges to the north and south. It is especially unique since the 2008 war with Russia, as the hike sends you westwards towards what is now known as the “breakaway” or “occupied” region of South Ossetia (one of two Georgian regions occupied by Russia since the 2008 war).
The Truso Valley turnoff point along the Georgian Military Highway is approximately 17km south of Kazbegi town center. You’ll want to do the first 5km into the valley with a sturdy (ideally 4WD) vehicle, ending at/near Okrokana, though the trail is perfectly walkable as well. From there, you can walk (or ride as far as the changing terrain allows) an additional 8km past Ketrisi village to Abano village.
Depending on how far you are able to drive, or how far you choose to walk, the Truso Valley trek can take as little as a few hours to the better half of a day. It’s really up to you and the terrain. Once beyond Abano, you’ll be heading towards Resi Fortress in the distance, perched on a hilltop. Georgian soldiers and/or Russian border guards will likely (and kindly) send you back the way you came as soon as you get anywhere close to the border, though.
Time Needed: a few hours to a whole day (dependent on your preferences and road conditions)
Distance from Kazbegi: 17km, plus an additional 5-10km of slow-go roads depending on where you choose to start walking (or where you can no longer continue driving)
Difficulty: Easy
Reason to Go: Immense, deep valley; off the beaten track (we didn’t see any other trekkers the whole day); as close as you’ll get to South Ossetia; easy day hike in/around Kazbegi.
Depending on your vehicle and the water level of mountain streams, you may not make it much farther than Okrokana. Pictured here is the road/trail a short distance beyond the village, just before opening up into the Truso Valley.
Truso Valley is also unique because it is home to small mineral water geysers (including their smell), koshki towers (like the ones in Svaneti), and nearly abandoned villages once inhabited by Ossetians before the war. As noted by your author’s jeans and t-shirt, this is NOT a strenuous nor technical hike.
Some of the unique formations from the mineral water geysers and deposits.
As you continue west, you’ll have to cross a few water features (streams), the number depending on the season and recent weather. Normally there should be a hasty stone or wood bridge, however sometimes these are washed out during heavy rains. Be prepared to scramble over rocks and/or get your feet wet, just in case.
Ketrisi, the first of three nearly abandoned villages in Truso Valley, was once full of Ossetians before the war (only one home was inhabited during this visit).
This crossing point had a functional bridge (the one prior had been washed away).
The beautiful Truso Valley, just west of Ketrisi (looking at Abano now, with Resi fortress in the distance).
And the approach to Abano village and its iconic koshki tower.
Resi Fortress in the distance, a wonderful view from Abano village.
The return walk is equally breathtaking.
Just in case you get lost while backtracking, locals have kindly labeled the (two) villages in the valley…
Hustling out of the valley before the evening rain arrived.