In case you haven’t already heard, Tbilisi is amazing.
Boasting a delightful balance of old and new, Eastern, Western, and outright Georgian qualities, the Georgian capital rarely disappoints. Don’t wait too long, though – Tbilisi is rapidly changing and accommodating more and more visitors every year. While the capital, and Georgia in general, can still be considered “off the beaten path” in a lot of ways (particularly for Americans), this likely won’t last long. If you are someone who enjoys traveling to places with rich history, unique music, incredible food, and strong cultural identity (not to mention the wine,) Tbilisi, and Georgia, will welcome you with open arms.
Local legend claims that King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered the current site in the 5th century while hunting – a wounded deer, injured an unable to walk, fell into one of the many hot sulphur springs and miraculously recovered before his eyes. Historians will point out that the capital was in fact moved from nearby Mtskheta in the late 5th century after Tbilisi was recaptured from the Persians. In any case, the local legend lives – the word tbili in Kartuli (Georgian) roughly translates as “warm”, and a warm sulphur bath can still serve as a miraculous experience, especially after a long supra.
Should you find yourself with some time to explore Tbilisi – and it is highly recommended that you do – below are some ideas to get you started.
Local Markets
Local markets are often a great way to quickly acclimate to a new city, country or region. You’re able to intensely expose all five of your senses to what makes a foreign destination unique. In a single two-hour walkabout, you can hear beautiful Georgian polyphonic music, smell the fresh puri bread coming out of the tone oven, taste tkemaki, a tangy homemade plum sauce, feel the thick fur of a Caucasus mountain dog, and see the beautiful color palette of a churchkhela rack.
While most of the guidebooks won’t include local markets on a to-do list, they aren’t too hard to find. Dezerter Bazaar, in Tbilisi, is a great option. Alternatively, Krtsanisi market, about 30 minutes away, provides a more low key and local option.
Dry Bridge
Looking for old Soviet gas masks? Check. Ram’s horns for drinking (chugging) local wine? Check. Or perhaps you just want to experience a regional Caucasus flea market, all in one place, any day of the week? You’ve come to the right place.
The Dry Bridge market in Tbilisi delivers on all of the above, and then some, with inevitable and delightful surprises, no matter how many times you visit. The key, though, is to never visit in a rush. Take your time with a fresh set of eyes to peruse the comprehensive collections of antiques, arts, crafts, and just plain junk. Be patient as you haggle, as you are just one of many passers-by throughout the long day. One man’s trash is always another man’s treasure, and the Dry Bridge will nearly always deliver.
Food
Georgians eat well. It’s as simple as that. From cheesy breads to juicy dumplings, Georgian cuisine can please even the pickiest palate. Georgians even enjoy the foods of former conquerors – it is said that khenkhali dumplings have roots in former Mongol conquerors. Many dishes also have lots of Persian influences for obvious reasons.
Tbilisi takes this even further, though. Young, local chefs are combining traditions of the past with trends of the present and future, fusing age-old recipes with contemporary, exciting ingredients and techniques. You really can’t go wrong with any of the restaurants listed on TripAdvisor or Lonely Planet. However, below are some personal favorites:
Classic Georgian – you want it, you got it. Khachapuri, khenkhali, mtsvadi…you know the drill by now. And even so, you keep coming back. If it ain’t broke, why fix it? It’s hard to mess up Georgian food (in Georgia, at least), but these restaurants repeatedly deliver a cut above the rest.
Maspindzelo – for an affordable yet genuine introduction to the staples of Georgian cuisine, Maspindzelo will always deliver. Even better, it is located right next to the famous sulphur baths, giving you an opportunity to indulge in a wonderful dinner followed by a luxurious soak (or visa versa, though you may fall asleep at the table).
Bread House – right next door, Bread House is nearly equal in taste, but gets extra marks for its ability to host larger groups (if needed). Maspindzelo still takes the cake in terms of superior flavor in a more casual setting, though – both equally important qualities of a genuine Georgian culinary experience.
Funicular Restaurant – location, location location. The Funicular is one of the best views in the city. Sitting atop a cliff at the back of the Mtatsminda Amusement Park, the Funicular offers fine dining, casual dining, and dessert/coffee/tea options in separate areas/levels of the restaurant. This is a very popular place for Georgians when they are looking to celebrate (though many still prefer to supra at home with family). Even if you don’t eat a meal here, stop by for a drink or a dessert to simply enjoy the view – you’ll need to take the funicular tram or a taxi to get to the restaurant (see link for additional information.)
Contemporary Georgian – you’ve probably already read about it by now, but many current chefs – most of them female – are taking Tbilisi by surprise with the incredible fusion of traditional and contemporary, old and new, east and west, urban and rural ingredients, recipes, and techniques. You may never get tired of khachapuri and khenkhali – I don’t blame you – but you simply have to venture out and explore some of these new(er) restaurants while in Tbilisi. You won’t regret it.
Cafe Littera – set in the dramatic courtyard of the Writers House (the 120 year old home of Davit Sarajishvili, considered the father of Georgian brandy), there is arguably no better place to eat ourdoors in all of Tbilisi. Simply walking through the arched entrance and entering the courtyard is an experience in and of itself. The food is fantastic as well – Chef Tekuna Gachechiladze has literally shaken the foundations of Georgian cuisine by swapping and fusing old and new ingredients to create something truly special.
Barbarestan – arguably one of the best, if not most unique, restaurants in Tbilisi, Barbarestan’s fame obviously comes from its superior food, service, and atmosphere. More notably, though, is the story of the menu. The owners stumbled upon an old recipe book at Dry Bridge, began trying out and experimenting with the several hundred recipes, and launched the restaurant in honor of the original author, Barbare Jorjadze. Dishes on the menu change often but always contain the number corresponding to its place in the original recipe book. Beware of sitting outside – you may encounter the sad experience of repeated approaches by beggars.
Ezo – one of the more notable organic restaurants in Tbilisi, Ezo is tucked into a beautiful local courtyard on a quiet street a short walk north from the Old Town. You won’t find many tourists here, but plenty of Georgians. Don’t come if you’re in a rush, though – this is an easy-going place with exceptional food in a casual setting, not a fine dining experience. Make sure to order the house wine.
Pur Pur – Pur Pur is both a culinary and visual experience. Just entering the stairwell from the street to the second floor restaurant is unique in and of itself. Once through the doors, you feel like you’ve entered another century (and yet another country). The food is more aligned with fine dining – smaller portions with unique bites of delicate ingredients. It is more expensive than most places in Tbilisi, but most people agree that is it worth it.
Lunch
Khasheria – this is a fantastic place for a casual lunch or afternoon meal, especially if you have a hangover. Spicy, hearty soups like kharcho will make you sweat while pumping your veins with salts – both good things when you’re feeling it from the night before. Even better is the cafe location – just across the street are the sulphur baths. It goes without saying that a fantastic afternoon/evening after a night out involves indulging at Khasheria followed by a long soak in the baths. Enjoy.
g.Vino Wine Bar – located in the heart of Old Town Tbilisi on the main Erekle II thoroughfare, g.Vino Wine Bar is a wonderful spot for a lunch or mid-afternoon break. The food is light and delicious, the wine is unique, and the location allows for exceptional people-watching. The waiters are also incredibly professional and courteous. This is a great place to go before a show at the Gabriadze Marionette theatre down the street.
Wine
As the birthplace of wine, Georgia has a distinct reputation in the winemaking community.
Known for earthy, tannin-filled flavors, a wide variety of local varietals, amber wine (white wine with long skin contact, turning the finished product brownish in color), and hangover-free homemade wines (sulfites are not popular in the home-wine community in Georgia), Georgians are perhaps most famous for their technique.
Aside from making organic wine before the term “organic” was even a thing, their self-described winemaking process involves fermenting the grapes and juice from the “womb of the earth”. Massive, multi-ton clay containers known as qvevri are buried in the earth, the insides lined with a layer of beeswax, then filled to the neck with the crushed grapes and sealed for months.
The juice that rises to the top is racked and converted into wine, while the must that sinks to the bottom is distilled into cha cha, the local, painful, fire-breathing version of grappa (which is also used to start fires when camping with Georgians).
The result of this process is stunning, producing unique, earthy flavors unlike anywhere else in the world. When traveling the countryside, you will rarely ever come across a family that doesn’t make their own wine in some form or another.
And whereas Americans sometimes pride themselves on growing simple herbs with every spare plot of soil in towns/cities, Georgians will do the same with the most wild varieties of grape – grape vines climb gutters, cover entire driveways, and engulf entire facades of homes in many regions.
Some European-style vintners may scoff at Georgian wine as “primitive” – your author overheard this exact comment in many regions of New Zealand – but this couldn’t be farther from the truth. When you get as good at something as Georgians are at making wine, you can simplify and refine the process with equal, if not better, results. And this simplicity probably scares people.
Feel free to order traditional bottles of wine when out at restaurants in Tbilisi – they are delicious. However, get in the habit of asking for the restaurant’s home wine, or gvino sakhli. This will come in separate open-topped containers, scooped by hand with a massive, traditional spoon out of the quevri or something similar. It will be homemade. And you will love it.
No visit to Tbilisi is complete without a visit to Abanotubani and its famed sulfur baths. In fact, there is no reason you should only visit once. The baths’ rejuvenating capabilities are without peer – even baths in Iceland, Vietnam, and New Zealand have failed to compare.
Whether it is before/after a long flight, upon the completion of a wonderful hike in the mountains, or, most importantly, the day after a five-hour supra, the sulfur baths will take you in as one person and spit you out as a another, every single time. There are several options in Abanotubani, a few of which are outlined below:
Orbeliani – though it looks more like a mosque from the outside, this is actually one of most recently updated options in Abanotubani. Lots of newly renovated, private rooms available and great customer service.
Royal Bathhouse – a personal favorite. While the Russian “hostess” is anything but a gracious host, just make sure to smile and make clear how long you need a private room (one hour is very sufficient, though two hours may be worth it if you want to take tea breaks, incorporate a Georgian “massage”, or just take your time.) The “menu” is very confusing unfortunately. On weekends and/or during high season, you may need to reserve in advance. Unless you speak enough Russian (or even Georgian) to complete over the phone, this may require a quick in-person visit to complete.
Bathhouse #5 – this is a very Georgian experience. While the staff are less than friendly and it will likely be crowded, this is the place the locals go, and for good reason. The rooms are beautiful.
Gulo’s Baths – apparently another great option, though never personally visited. Comes highly recommended as one of the top end, private room options.
Many of the baths offer Georgian “massages”, but like many things in Georgia, the English translation doesn’t really tell the whole story.
A Georgian massage, at least in your author’s experience, is more like an aggressive “smack and scrub” with a splash of rinsing – there was very little “massaging” involved at all.
From the waiting room, it sounds more like someone being slapped around while spilling multiple buckets of water. 100% worth trying though, if not for pleasure than for the story you can tell afterwards.
Lastly, some of the more expensive rooms come equipped with ice-cold dipping pools, though all rooms come with showers that can serve the same purpose. Rotating between extremely hot and extremely cold temperatures is a wonderful way to rejuvenate both your skin and your soul.
Church Crawl
The easiest way to escape the hustle and bustle of traffic in Tbilisi is to duck into a local Georgian Orthodox church. And luckily, they are seemingly around every other corner, just waiting to be explored.
If you have the time and interest, try exploring some of these churches on an early morning, or even a Sunday morning if it can work with your schedule.
Georgian Orthodox churches are full of surprises for your senses – sometimes you’ll be overwhelmed by the smell of local incense, impressed by the strength of Georgian priests during a baptism, or truly moved by the mesmerizing sound of Georgian polyphonic chants.
Whatever the case and context, the cool air, darkness, and fading frescoes will take you to a different time and place altogether. Be sure to dress appropriately and show due respect. Some good options are below:
Anchiskhati Basilica – the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi. Located in the heart of Old Tbilisi.
Tsminda Sameba Cathedral – the largest cathedral in Georgia, and also the best example of post-Soviet revival architecture.
Upper Betlemi Church – a hidden gem located just below the Nariqala Fortress. Great views of Tbilisi and some rich, blue frescoes inside.
Sioni Cathedral – arguably one of the most convenient cathedrals, as it is located in the heart of Old Tbilisi and makes for a great, peaceful escape on a crowded or hot day.
Mtatsminda
By far the most impressive, sweeping view of the city is from Mtatsminda Park. There are two ways to get here – you can hire a taxi for a reasonable fare and take the winding, switchback road to the back of the amusement park. From there, walk down through the park until you reach the Funicular Restaurant and cliff overlooking the city. Or, take a taxi (or walk) to the Mtatsminda tram, pay the small fare and enjoy the short, steep ride up to the same restaurant and cliff.
The food is expensive (relative to Georgian prices), however on the second floor/patio you can simply enjoy a snack and/or drink while taking in the view. It goes without saying that sunset is a good time to make this happen.
Nariqala Fortress
A great way to orient yourself in Tbilisi is to make your way to the top of Nariqala Fortress. It is impossible to miss – sitting atop Old Tbilisi along a ridge and well-lit at night, it was originally a Persian Citadel in the 4th century before Tbilisi was retaken by the Georgians. The current foundations and walls date from the 8th century, but an explosion in 1827 destroyed the fortress itself (the Soviets stored munitions here in the early 19th century). The Church of St. Nicholas was rebuilt in the 1990’s.
If you don’t feel like making the climb on foot, you can take a cable car (like a ski lift) from across the river in Raki Park for a small fee. In any case, you’ll have a great view of Kartlis Deda, or Mother Georgia, on your way to the top.
This massive, 20m aluminum woman carries a sword in one hand and a bowl of wine in the other (a perfect illustration of the Georgian mindset – extremely hospitable to visitors, yet ready and willing to fight off enemies). This is another great place to sit back and relax as twilight sets in.
Georgian Hipster Culture
If you know where to look, Tbilisi is arguably the hipster capital of the world. Georgian hipsters make the term “hipster” cool and creative again.
Unique theatres and performances pop up all over the city – the Pantomime Theater and the Tbilisi Movement Theater are just two of the great options (the former involving incredibly athletic actors/dancers with intense music and lighting accompaniment, the latter kind of like a low-budget, local Georgian Cirque du Soleil).
Additionally, world-renowned performances rotate through the city as well. The Tbilisi Opera hosts multiple shows/tours each year, and the local Marionette Theatreis one of the best, if not the best, in the world.
It’s hard to get bored in Tbilisi. Even better, the city is rapidly changing and opening itself up to world. Visit once, and you’ll find yourself coming back again and again.