Every September, normally the first or second weekend of the month, Shatili hosts the annual Shatiloba Festival.
One of the best folk festivals in Georgia, it involves everything Khevsurian – folk music, horse racing, traditional dance, authentic khenkali, heavy drinking, and even some Georgian wrestling if you’re lucky.
You’ll be one of, if not the only foreigner in attendance, as this is a very local festival (for now) and one highly regarded by Georgians.
If you’re looking for an authentic glimpse into Georgian folk traditions, you’ve come to the right place.
Time Needed
Two days, one night.
When To Go
This festival occurs every September, normally the first or second Saturday of the month. Google “Shatiloba” and the year you’ll be there you should be able to find some official dates and information online.
Distance from Tbilisi
Driving time to Shatili is about four hours from Tbilisi.
Reason to Go
Authentic folk music and dance, traditional horse races, local wine and cha cha, and incredible khenkali. Oh, and the incredible “tentative” UNESCO World Heritage site of Shatili overlooking it all. You will also be one of the very few foreigners in attendance.
Getting There and Back
To get to Shatili, you’ll need to hire a car/taxi or get a seat on one of the marshrutky heading there twice a week at 0900 from the Navtlughi Station (near the Samgori Metro Station).
4WD is not required for this trip. The above details can change, so your best bet is to ask your guesthouse or accommodation. Same for getting back to Tbilisi – though your best bet will be marshrutky, which depart nowadays on Thursdays and Sundays.
Places to Stay
Nearly everyone at the Shatiloba Festival will set up a tent and just crash after the long day of music, dance, and wine. However, there are also a few guesthouse options, including some options in original Shatili stone homes now converted into luxurious accommodations. Check here for the latest options.
Places to Eat
This shouldn’t even be on your mind. In addition to the music, dance, and entertainment, the Georgians will obviously have food covered as well, including amazing khenkali, mtsvadi, and tonis puri bread. Make sure you have cash and just head towards the tents with smoke billowing out and over the Arghuni River – you won’t be disappointed.
Regional Combinations
Coming to or from Shatili, make sure to spend a few hours wandering through the ancient village itself – it is completely unregulated, like most sights in Georgia, and a respectful stroll through the various tunnels and homes within the stone complex is unforgettable.
Heading back to Tbilisi from Shatili, a stop in Mtskheta (along the way) is also worth your time. The original capital of Georgia and it’s spiritual heart to this day, it also is said to be the location of Christ’s robe from the crucifixion – see above link for details.
Shatiloba Festival – In Pictures
Normally held on a Saturday, the Shatiloba Festival will begin midday – take advantage of the morning to explore the ruins of Shatili overlooking the Arghuni River.
Just when your stomach begins to grumble, you’ll see some tents, tables and chairs set up by the river. This is Georgian “tailgating” at its best, and is where you want to be for the best khenkali, mtsvadi, and tonis puri Georgian bread. And as always, there will also be plenty of wine and cha cha.
The afternoon will kick off with horse races. Teenagers from local villages will compete in the race, beginning in nearby Mutso and ending in Shatili. Stay off the path, though – the horses will make the final turn at full speed.
As the sun goes down and the weather begins to cool off, the stage will set up for the formal performances – folk music, traditional dance, and other traditions. Find yourself a nice seat in the grass overlooking the stage, grab a blanket, and settle in for a wonderful night of Georgian mountain entertainment.
Most Georgians camp out for the night after the festival concludes – pack accordingly if you decide not to make guest house reservations. Enjoy!