You may find yourself in Khevsureti for a variety of reasons. Maybe you’re starting or ending an amazing trek, such as the famous hike from Omalo to Shatili. Maybe you’re coming to visit Shatili. Or perhaps you’ve specifically timed your visit to coincide with the local Shatiloba Festival, a celebration of Georgian folk traditions.
Whatever the case, you’ve made a great choice. Bordering the turbulent Chechnya (Russia) region to the north, the defensive nature of the Khevsureti region is amazing to see up close. Shatili, and neighboring Mutso, are perfect examples of this culture. The region is also wonderfully sparse in population and relatively untouched by tourism. In fact, it is said that men were walking around in chain mail well into the 20th century – a testament to the region’s remoteness.
Shatili is an ideal launching point for whatever you’re in town to explore – defensive architecture, pristine forested valleys, or even medieval crypts. And while you’re at it, make sure to eat some local khinkali dumplings – this region is credited as the birth place of this dough-wrapped delight.
Time Needed
Half day minimum, more if you’d like to do some trekking or explore nearby villages.
When To Go
You’re best chance of crossing the Datvisjvari Pass (2676m) into Khevsureti and the Argun Valley is from May through September, so this is also the only time you’ll be able to get to Shatili.
Distance from Tbilisi
Driving time to Shatili is about four hours from Tbilisi.
Reason to Go
Spectacular mountain terrain, ancient defensive architecture, limited to no tourist crowds, and the “tentative” UNESCO World Heritage site of the old Shatili village overlooking it all. This is also the apparent birthplace of the khinkali dumpling – do you really need another reason?
Getting There and Back
To get to Shatili, you’ll need to hire a car/taxi or get a seat on one of the marshrutky heading there twice a week at 0900 from the Navtlughi Station (near the Samgori Metro Station).
4WD is not required for this trip. The above details can change, so your best bet is to ask your guesthouse or accommodation – they can easily find you an updated answer. Same for getting back to Tbilisi – though your best bet will be marshrutky, which depart nowadays on Thursdays and Sundays.
Places to Stay
Camping is a very reasonable and practical form of accommodation here. However, there are also lots of guesthouse options, including a few options in original Shatili stone homes now converted into luxurious accommodations.
Places to Eat
Guesthouses are again your best bet, though most of the villages have some locals serving fresh food during the summer season. Otherwise, you’ll want to pack some food, especially if you’re doing some trekking.
Regional Combinations
Coming to or from Shatili, make sure to spend a few hours wandering through the ancient village itself – it is completely unregulated, like most sights in Georgia, and a respectful stroll through the various tunnels and homes within the stone complex will be a once in a lifetime experience.
3km northeast, you’ll want to visit the Anatori Crypts. These medieval tombs are the resting place of villagers who, in times of plague, voluntarily (and possibly involuntarily) came here to die in isolation after contracting the disease. Bones are still visible as you peer through the iron gates.
Further up the river about 9km is Mutso, an equally stunning abandoned stone village sitting high up above the valley. Construction was ongoing in recent years to accommodate tourists, however the koshki towers and stone fortresses are still worth the climb.
Heading back to Tbilisi from Shatili, a stop in Mtskheta (along the way) is also worth your time. The original capital of Georgia and it’s spiritual heart to this day, it also is said to be the location of Christ’s robe from the crucifixion – see above link for details.
Heading to Shatili from Tbilisi.
Like most of Georgia, the drive from Tbilisi to Shatili is stunning in and of itself – you’ll cross the Datvisjvari Pass (2676m) and descend into Khevsureti, the Argun Valley, and into Shatili.
Shatili, built between the 7th and 13th centuries, sits atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the Arghuni River.
Like many sites in Georgia, the medieval village of Shatili is completely unregulated. A morning stroll through the stone village is well worth your time.
You’ll notice that the entire Shatili village is built from the slate stone found in the surrounding valleys.
The village also has some particularly impressive balconies overlooking the beautiful Shatili valley below.
Some of the interiors are equally stunning.
In many cases, the stone walls are built directly on top of stone outcroppings, as shown here.
Walking out of Shatili and upriver, you’ll be able to look back and fully appreciate both the immensity of the Khevsurian terrain as well as the defensive nature of the regional villages in the valleys.
If you look closely, you can just barely spot the stone village of Shatili tucked beneath the massive mountain.
3km northeast, you’ll want to visit the Anatori Crypts. These medieval tombs are the resting place of villagers who, in times of plague, voluntarily (and possibly involuntarily) came here to die in isolation after contracting the disease. Bones are still visible as you peer through the iron gates.
The Anatori Tombs are located along the road upriver from Shatili, just before the trails heads south towards Mutso.
Peering through the windows, human bones are readily visible.
Further up the river about 9km is Mutso, an equally stunning abandoned stone village sitting high up above the valley. Construction was ongoing in recent years to accommodate tourists, however the koshki towers and stone fortresses are still worth the climb.
Continuing south towards Mutso.
You’ll know you’re close when the first defensive koshki tower reveals itself.
Mutso is another example of a spectacularly placed stone village atop a rocky outcrop above the valley. As you can see by the orange safety container, construction is ongoing to accommodate more tourists.
From Mutso, you can continue on foot to the Atsunta Pass and into the famous Tusheti region (part of the incredible multi-day trek from Shatili to Omalo. Otherwise, enjoy the view while it remains relatively undisturbed!