Visiting Georgia without experiencing the food, music, people, and culture tucked away deep in the vast Caucasus terrain is like visiting Louisiana without experiencing the Cajun influence originating from the bayou – you’re missing out on something unique and special.
However, properly accessing – and more importantly experiencing – these regions requires a significant amount of time, an amount which most travelers either don’t have, or can’t devote to a single region in a country as geologically diverse as Georgia.
Traveling to Mestia, the base point for treks in Svaneti in northwest Georgia, can take nearly twelve hours by vehicle. And to access Omalo, the most common launching point for treks in Tusheti, you’ll have to endure an equally long trip, most of it along one of the most dangerous roads in the world. Borjomi, Lagodekhi, and Khevsureti each have unique accessibility challenges as well.
For those looking to get a taste and a feel for the grandeur of Georgia’s mountains via a paved road (and one NOT on the world’s most dangerous road list) within three hours of Tbilisi, look no further than Kazbegi.
Located in a beautiful valley just 15km south of the Russian border, Kazbegi (officially Stepantsminda) is a small, quiet town tucked underneath the towering Mount Kazbek (and less imposing but equally beautiful Tsminda Sameba Church).
To get to Kazbegi, you can drive or hire a vehicle (or taxi or mashrutki) and head due north along the Georgian Military Highway, a well-maintained and fully-paved freeway that begins just outside of Tbilisi. Although the drive will only take three hours from start to finish, there are a few spots along the way that are well worth your time.
Time Needed
At least a day and a night for Kazbegi alone, more if you plan to do regional treks or activities
Distance from Tbilisi
Three hours point to point (though some interesting stops along the way, see below)
Reason to go
Most accessible mountain region in Georgia; great hikes; cheap accommodation; climbing up to Tsminda Sameba Church (see below)
Transportation
As always, you can rent a car, hire a personal driver, or hire a taxi one way for about 100 Lari from Tbilisi. Alternatively, Marshrutky depart from Tbilisi every other hour from any of the transportation centers – prices will be about 10 to 15 Lari one way.
Accommodation
Kazbegi is full of great guesthouses as well as a few upscale hotels. Always check here for the most up to date options, as construction is rapidly occurring.
Other Regional Activities
If you are heading to/from Kazbegi from Tbilisi, a stop in Mtskheta is a must either en route or on your way back, as you’ll be driving right past it.
Additionally, Kazbegi is full of great day hikes and overnight hikes, especially Sno Valley and Truso Valley. The most adventurous can attempt to summit Gergeti Glacier, whereas those a little more leisurely can simply make the climb to the iconic Tsminda Sameba Church overlooking the town.
Zhinvali Reservoir and Ananuri Fortress
Within an hour so of departing Tbilisi, you’ll come across the beautiful waters of the Zhinvali Reservoir. On the northwestern end of the reservoir is the picturesque Ananuri Fortress, a fairy tale-like castle overlooking the water that was formerly owned and inhabited by the dukes of Aragvi, who ruled the surrounding area from the 13th to 18th centuries.
You can climb the tallest of the fortress’ towers for some outstanding views as well, though this is where the fairy tale ends – it was here where the last defenders of the Aragvi were killed in 1739 when a rival family set fire to the property and killed the entire family.
The Zhinvali Reservoir is a stunning body of water along the Georgian Military Highway just 60km from Tbilisi.
You’ll find the Ananuri Fortress on the northwestern end of the reservoir as you continue towards Kazbegi – it is certainly worth a stop.
As you climb the fortress towers, you can’t help but think of the last stand of the Aragvi family that occurred within the stairwell.
Continuing north, you’ll encounter a series of intense switchbacks about an hour later as you make the 500m ascent up to the ski resort area of Gudauri. During ski season, this is a great area for steep downhill slopes and affordable lift passes and rentals. During the offseason, there are a variety of outdoors pursuits, including trekking, mountain biking, and paragliding. Lodging is added every year as well.
Traffic is inevitable, even outside of Tbilisi.
Just before Jvari Pass (2379m, the crossing point into Kazbegi region), you can stop at the Russia/Georgia “Friendship Memorial”, a colorful mosaic structure and viewpoint overlooking the beautiful valley below and mountains in the distance. Built after the conflict in the 1990s, it has obviously taken on a new meaning since the war in 2008.
The Russia/Georgia Friendship Memorial. Maybe they will change the name…
As soon as you cross the Jvari Pass (named after the cross, or jvari in Georgian, placed here by the famous King David the Builder), you’ll begin the slow descent into Kazbegi proper.
While there are multiple options for lodging, including high-end hotels like the Rooms, normal hotels, and hostels, one of the best experiences in Georgia is an extended stay at a local guesthouse. For $20-$30 (and often less), you receive an authentic Georgian dinner, a bed, a bathroom (sometimes shared), and a breakfast all in a genuine Georgian home. You wake to squawking chickens and grumpy cows. The cheese, yogurt and milk will be fresh. You can get travel advice and useful vocabulary from the kids in the family. And the wine is always homemade and delicious.
Our Kazbegi homestay had an extensive library of Russian books.
Our host’s kitchen area.
And the great view just outside our private entrance.
You should definitely take some time to just stroll around town. If you look closely, you can just barely see the silhouette of Tsminda Sameba Church in the distance, atop the hill on the left, watching over Kazbegi like the Eye of Sauron from the Lord of the Rings.
Tsminda Sameba Church
No visit to Kazbegi is complete without the hike, or pilgrimage, to Tsminda Sameba Church. Dating from the 14th century, the church sits perched atop a prominent hill overlooking Kazbegi at 2200m, making one wonder how in the world Georgians were able to construct such a facility at such a height with 14th century technology (and if you travel enough in Georgia, you will soon encounter this question more often than you might expect).
Many legends and stories are associated with this church. In 1988, for example, the Soviet authorities attempted to build a cable car from the Kazbegi History Museum in town to the entrance to the church. The local town residents, incensed at the thought of their magical view becoming impeded with a chair lift full of tourists, quickly tore it down. Other legends describe how the church was used to store national treasures and artifacts in times of danger, such as the famous St. Nino cross.
In any case, making the trek (and ideally on foot) is well worth it for the reasons above and more. To get there, simply make your way to Gergeti village off the main highway/town center. About 1km off the highway, you’ll begin seeing signs for the trailhead (and if ever at a loss, simply ask a friendly local for Tsminda Sameba and they will point you in the right direction). While there is technically a less strenuous path along the other side of the hill, this path follows the car path and is much less interesting than the traditional one described here. (And yes, hiring a car is also an option).
The hike involves about 700m of elevation gain and takes about an hour one-way from the trailhead. The inside of the church isn’t spectacular by any means, but make sure you budget time to enjoy the view.
As you begin to gain elevation, you’ll gain a great view over Gergeti village and the mountains on the far side of town.
A crumbling koshki tower, looking back as you continue up the trail.
And the view of Kazbegi from the church.
There is another hill just beyond the church itself, in case you’d like to capture this classic shot (often seen on Georgian Tourism advertisements).